Gluing the Heel-block and end block, also gluing the kerfing to the sides

Decided how to connect the neck to the soundboard: I didn't like the option that was in the book and I didn't like an experience I had with screw in nuts (back when I did the box joint jig). Plus the screw in nut would be going into end grain on the neck... So I decided to try a furniture style nut. Like below.You will see the holes drilled in the heel-block to accept the neck of the guitar. The other hole at the bottom is for the truss bar adjustment screw.
One of the things that was holding me back from finishing up this project and for that matter, what could have made the inlay much easier was this tool below. I finally ordered a routing base specifically designed for binding, but also great for inlay. Can't wait to use it!
You will notice three cleats (diamond shaped pieces of wood) on the soundboard. I added those a while ago but didn't post. that process. It was simply gluing on some Sitka Spruce squares and chisel them into a pyramid shape.

Making sure the end-block is at a 90° angle to the soundboard.

Gluing down the end block.
Gluing up the heel-block.
I used that scrap block of wood from an earlier post that I saved to keep this heel-block pressure straight down. (because the top is cut at an angle.) See top of block photo below.

Gluing the kerfing on the top of each side of the guitar. I had to put rubber bands on each of the clothes pins to apply more pressure to the kerfing. (better clamp)



Above you can see the reverse kerfing that I ended up using. (not what I made...)


All glued up! Now that's a lot of clothes pins. I used the business card and sponge to apply the glue.

If you're still following this blog, write me a comment below! I could use the encouragement... or critiques.